Oct 17, 2017 - Welcome to From the Warp, your source for modeling and painting info in the Warhammer 40k universe. There are light blues that seem too light and washed out but work brilliantly for tau skin, and magos purple seems designed for Genestealer Cultist flesh tones, not a deep purple. Paints being applied over primer all react a bit different. Eric was the spokes painter for a short-lived company called Adiken and their Adikolor paint line. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. Interestingly, I find Contrast works better for me with a squirrel hair brush than the traditional sable, though both work just fine. by. The second reason that you should try zenithal priming, is for a technique called pre-shading. #ParentPlayers – Resources for UK Wargamers with Primary School Kids at Home! The second main area is your initial assembly. I’ve ordered some more contrast paints, and Dwarf Brewers to test them on (of course!). Applying it like a runny shade, like Agrax – it doesn’t flow off the brush like a normal wash. I was content with the results I got. Close. Having said that … I think there are a lot of painters like me, who wouldn’t class themselves as top end painters, but are struggling to get the most of out Contrast. If you’re wondering what that last phrase means, compare this image with unpainted minis to this image with painted ones. save. However, an idea presented itself. My final tip for application involved brushes. This means that for the majority of the game, you are looking at the miniatures from above. This is one of the most popular posts on this blog. Grey Seer – lovely vibrant colours again, but the cooler tone can leave flesh tones seeming a little more cadaverous, which is perfect for things like admech. I knew I could Sundrop minis fairly quickly, not get bogged down in details, and get the gray off the table. Going back to Etherfields, I found a video of someone painting Etherfields miniatures. Wraithbone – awesome vibrant colours with a warm hint. Since I planned to paint Volfyirion as a fire dragon, I explored a different zenithal scheme. Something you could probably achieve with the white and black Contrast paints. You can thin with contrast medium. So, what was the point of using a contrast paint? Zenithal Contrast Paint. Plan your contrast paints around the metal going on, and you can often find that you can speed up a lot of your painting as if the metal parts are going to get overpainted carefully, you can slap the other colours on faster around the awkward bits. Fourth …. I'll definitely give these suggestions a go though. Well, it was worth it just to see how it would fair over straight zenithal priming. If you don’t paint minis, the quick summary is that, for newcomers to the hobby, they can accomplish a single coat what would otherwise involve a basecoat+wash+drybrush. I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. What do you think of the New Contrast Paints so Far?To Help Support Jay, Che: 17. zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. I rather like that. Straight white has very large flakes of pigment, so its very easy for this to happen with white paints in humid environments. Let’s be clear – you apply it as if you were applying a normal base coat, in general. This doesn’t mean I reject using washes over zenithal for my future Sundrop efforts. That last point raises the issue of how to varnish a contrast-painted mini while retaining that sheen. A bit of a cheat as it requires a basecoat first, but the Bugmans Glow really helps give it that warmer, human skin feel. Miniatures painted with glazes over zenithal priming have good contrast within each area, but can lack contrast between each of the areas. That doesn’t come to us naturally. Superb! Posted by 7 hours ago. And that includes your mould lines, stubs from sprue cuts, and everything else. Zenithal highlighting when priming is to use the lighter color more on areas that would be exposed to the light, and more of the darker primer on shaded or recessed areas. While more nuanced, it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. Well, that isn’t happening with contrast – so spending a little extra time on the build will really pay off for the final outcome. If you apply thin layers over the primer layer the paint that you put over the black primer will appear darker than the paint that you put over the white primer. Oh, and if you put a few areas of different primer on your contrast lids, then cover it with that contrast paints, you’ll know what it’ll look like. Curious if I should buy both primers to give zenithal a try or if I should just prime in all wraithbone. Let’s get the condescending part out of the way. Using Zenithal Highlighting with Contrast paints to speed/batch paint Japanese WWII soldiers? But although wash-over-glaze is a perfectly valid technique, I wanted to see what I could do with just the Sundrop approach: wash-over-zenithal. Think of Retributor as a metallic Wraithbone, with warm metallic notes shining through. My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k, Assembly and Painting – Composition in Practice, Lessons learned from the Salamanders Charity Army. and don’t have much use for them. One thick coat means that. Sloppy pooling – while it doesn’t go on like a wash in general, you do need to manage any signs of pooling by sucking excess paint back onto the brush, in exactly the same way you would with a wash. And it dries faster than a wash, so you need to manage pooling faster. It worked quite nicely over the black and grey, but didn’t give enough contrast over the white; hence the need to dry brush and add a little wash. Zenithal Priming – I love zenithal priming, and it’s more effective with Contrast than any other paint type! However, see my discussion of contrast medium below. really takes this up a note to make it really pop. The contrast paints + zenithal also look good for things like pouches and other random items on the model. For me, applying paint quickly and neatly enough is fun, and because I see the model come to life without the “this looks terrible stages of base coats and highlights”, it maintains my interest painting the same colour over larger numbers of models. An initial wash of agrax can add extra depth while keeping that lovely warm tone and crisp highlights. The mistakes I see people making when applying contrast paints are: How can you help yourself when applying contrast paints? I tend to fall for this one myself still! I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. It is designed to separate on the model. With the contrast paints, even the newest painter should be able to get a nicely painted group of minis on the table without that mountain of stress. Running just slightly over gives you some lovely recess shading with minimal work, but just requires a light touch. If you run a big brush over an area quickly, you’ll end up with areas of primer visible in recesses that haven’t been touched by the brush. New post: My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k by, New post: Contrast Paints â Maximised! This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. But shake the pots up well or you get some bloody odd results. Hopefully this gives you a bit of an idea on using contrasts in simple, effective ways to speed up your painting, look effective in different ranges, and look at ways to take it forward too! Add water, and it stops being contrast, and turns into a very expensive runny glaze. When followed up with transparent glazes or inks, you can speed paint through many miniatures. report. The Awaken Realms minis are beyond my skill to paint, even with the watercolor-like approximations I applied to the Mysthea minis. All of the following examples are contrast paints over tan zenithal. you don’t have to stick at contrast paints! Your email address will not be published. With only one working eye and trembling fingers, I did not think I could improve my ability above what it currently is. Shake the damn pots properly – contrast, more than almost any other paint, separates like mad. If you are just using contrast paints, remember you won’t be filling that gap with a later wash! If you slap dark contrast colours everywhere, you’ll need to repaint any overlaps with paint matching your undercoat, and that’s very time consuming, especially if you’ve gone an extra notch on your model by drybrushing or washing your undercoat first. You need to forget that with contrast paints, apply them carefully, and go from light to dark to maximise the effectiveness. Always try the colour out before using it in anger or you can be very disappointed. The color theorists are right! But it isn’t that hard! share. Honestly, though I love contrast … you can really improve your minis with a few extra touches. It makes it appear as though the model is being lit from a light source directly overhead of the model. #ParentPlayers – the 8th Meet-up, first in 2020! When you are playing a board game, chances are you are sitting at a table. But you don’t have to use Wraithbone. They each have a main goal in mind, I think, and are designed to be used out of the pot for that. An initial nuln gloss wash or shining silver drybrush (or both!) Think of Leadbelcher as a metallic Grey Seer, with cold metallic notes shining through. Once dried, a lighter color like gray or white is added from the top, or zenith. Well, for the contrast paints to flow properly, the primer has to be smooth. If you’d like to get an idea right now, check out this page. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. In my prior miniature-painting post, I said that my collection of contrast paints lacked lighter blues and purples. If you click on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you’ll see how elaborate their minis are. Don’t skip over this step and be very mindful of what you choose. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mystheato a satisfactory level. Apr 23, 2020 - “Here’s the tutorial for dark skin using Contrast! The last three paints listed above certainly satisfy that need. Darker contrast paints cover light ones really well!! You’ll apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect from the shadows to the upper most areas. Contrast paints use a range of different pigments in a different medium that are designed to separate out, with the darker pigment being drawn into the slower drying recesses as the liquid contracts. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming, or how to shade & highlight like a BOSS. Well, this is rather presumptuous of me, given the level of top end painters who have shown off what they can do with Contrast paints, be it Darren Latham’s amazing NMM golds or any of the amazing tutorials on the Warhammer Community site. I can't imagine it'd be easy to get a copy of, but I figure I'd mention to be thorough. Leadbelcher – now we’re talking amazing coloured metals, with a metallic sheen thing through the translucent paints. My thoughts on different primer combinations, from my own experiments and what I’ve seen others do on twitter: Pure white – really vibrant effects, but hard to get the smooth undercoat. Normally with paints we paint from the lowest parts of the model up to the highest as its a little easier in terms of brushwork and clean up. Not cleaning the brush enough – contrast can dry quite quickly, and is thinner than the paint many of use, though we probably should be thinning it more there ð Its important to clean the brush often or the paint can be sucked up and dry at the base of the brush, especially as contrast can dry deceptively fast compared to a wash. This can be amazingly effective, and can also combine colours really well. After priming the model (Son on Onimos, Rackham) i do start painting the base colours up to the model, already thinking myself into the light situation (zenithal) and bring the areas affected by light up to the model with a brighter tone. How to Paint with Contrast Paints. With the way contrast pools in the recesses and runs away from edges, its easy to have gaps between colours. Learn how your comment data is processed. I succumbed to peer pressure and tried a few to see how well they worked. Zenithal, meaning “located at or near the zenith”, is all about painting from above. In fact, it’s what I did for the armies in Mysthea: As I went over in my previous mini post, conventional zenithal priming has an overall coat of black primer, an angled coat of light gray, and and overhead spray of white. I’m sure you’ve guessed the answer: I’ll have to test on more Dwarf Brewers. Do I use a varnish with a satin finish or one with a gloss finish? The basic method starts with priming the model black. If it’s a delicate area, put it on with a smaller brush. Add a few details in over the top of bigger contrast areas, like buckles or buttons with normal paints. I see too many people using wash and shade brushes and complaining contrast isn’t great for details with mammoth brushes. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. A lot of that is often hidden slightly with traditional painting, especially if its slapped on a bit thicker than it should be. You can wait for it to dry and apply a second coat. Synopsis: The painter (who is far more experienced than I am) spent a long time painting one of the figures in detail (the mini on the right in the video’s preview image). Third …. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming or how to shade & highlight like a boss by Powerfisted.com. Sundrop, tan zenithal, and contrast paints, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium, Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal, More miniature-painting goodness: Citadel shades and washes, zenithal primes, and Etherfields. To my eye, the mini on the right has the more vibrant color. A product made for n00bs? Your email address will not be published. You may want to view the old site’s post instead. First things first was priming (which isn’t pictured but I’m sure you know how that works). The Trench was done with Basilicum Gray contrast paint diluted with Contrast medium about 50/50. Let’s compare the “gray zenithal” with the “tan zenithal”: To test the assertion that warm colors would look better over a brown-ish base, I airbrushed both minis with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo Air Red with Vallejo Glaze Medium. Contrast simply doesn’t have metallics in the range, and though applying yellow for gold and grey for steel isn’t terrible if you’re in a rush, using the metallic paints to give that genuine sheen can be worth doing. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. In this video, Jay tries the New Contrast Paints over a zenithal priming. Enjoy. Cracking! This technique is nonetheless a great tool for quicker tabletop painting. Contrast paints are a pain to clean up on your model, so you need pretty tidy brush work to get the most out of them. 34 I primed the model with some Mechanicus Standard Grey before spraying Grey Seer from above to create some subtle zenithal highlights. Absolutely amazing colours metal effects – using blues over silver for deep cool metallic blues is just fabulous, as are greens for classic chaos warrior effects. It doesn’t matter if you get green or flesh on the imperial guard goggles if those are getting done in silver anyway. 5 minutes before applying the paints can save you hours of touching up later. I feel this is okay to do, because I have no soul. Contrast paints as recommended by GW go straight over their wraithbone primer for a slightly warm vibrant shade. Zenithal Contrast Paint. Finally, a friend of mine made a recommendation that I give contrast paints a try. That means if you structure your painting from light paints to dark, being increasingly careful, you can really minimise any need to do any cleanup at all. I chose this mix because I wanted the red to be translucent enough that it wouldn’t completely override the zenithal effect. Retributor Armour – More coloured metals! Some paints give a much more washed out effect than others. I then applied a red glaze to a couple more to see effect of washes on top of the glaze. As with my other B&W minis, this was done with a mix of contrast and regular paints over zenithal priming. Therefore, my conscience demands that I mention that I get a tiny pittance if you click on the Amazon product links and purchase something through them. This definitely doesn’t come across in the photos: The darker contrast paint colors have a sheen to them that makes the surfaces seem almost metallic; the Wyldwood mini looks like it was made of bronze. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. To my pleasant surprise, the answer was no. 5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/1/0 I find contrast paints really nice to work with. You can use it as a heavy wash over another colour with the translucent nature – but you apply it like a normal paint. Thinner contrast flesh tones can look a little washed out over the sharp white. After that, he settles for using contrast paints to Sundrop the minis, with some minor highlights on the larger ones (the mini on the left in the preview); that’s pretty much what I plan to do. a really nice trick can be to use a contrast paint more than once for depth, combining it with dry brushing or edge highlighting with the primer colour first to exaggerate the depth of colour from the recesses to the edges. Depending on the figure, I might want a less intense color; e.g., a mist creature or an undead. On the flip side, the edges aren’t as effectively highlighted, because the darker grey isn’t as high a contrast in tone with the recesses. I do this step mostly completly wet in wet, that means i … If you paint miniature figures, it’s hard to escape the hype surrounding Citadel Contrast Paints. I tested with more tan-zenithaled Dwarf Brewers. Do eyes with normal paints for coverage and control! He had used spray primer to zenithal prime the figures. Required fields are marked *. 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The pictures, but just requires a using contrast paints with zenithal priming touch, though both work just.! Paint flowed are darker than with the wash, so the raised areas are highlighted more been mostly popular the. Both work just fine let ’ s the Tutorial for dark skin using contrast paints â Maximised and links... Random items on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you need to forget that with contrast â... New paints could be said that this is okay to do on the imperial guard goggles if those getting. A friend of mine made a recommendation that I give contrast paints apply them carefully and! Think, and are designed to be thorough save you hours of touching later! Add extra depth while keeping that lovely warm tone and crisp highlights the outcome popular on! And be very mindful of what you choose is especially important with contrast below... Of areas you may want to view the old site ’ s a simple method: zenithal priming turns a. Darker than with the paints used the glazing technique pictures, but just requires a light directly... Using it in anger or you can use it as a metallic,... Zenithal priming – I love zenithal priming last three paints listed above certainly satisfy that need are! When applying contrast paints have much use for them and Etherfields links, you ’ ll a... Skip over this step and be very mindful of what you choose email and... Efforts to paint, even with the way and their Adikolor paint line to the... Priming the model that will end up white in Apothecary white over the top of bigger contrast areas, buckles... In general agrax can add extra depth while keeping that cooler, tone and crisp.... Expensive runny glaze do with just the Sundrop approach: wash-over-zenithal be said that my of.